I just came back from a three week trip to Italy, and the experience left me with mixed emotions. I have a long personal connection to the country through my Sicilian heritage and have visited many times in the past, though my last trip was back in 2006. Coming from Australia, the distance makes every visit meaningful, and this time I wanted to share those memories with my two kids while also exploring new places.
We entered via the Mont Blanc Tunnel after spending time in Paris and Chamonix, then started in Aosta. It turned out to be a hidden gem with a relaxed mountain vibe, beautiful piazzas, Roman ruins, and stunning alpine scenery. It felt authentic and pleasantly uncrowded.
Due to train disruptions, we took a bus to Turin and then continued by rail to Riomaggiore via Genoa. Contrary to expectations, it was not overcrowded. We stayed near the church square with amazing views and enjoyed a peaceful atmosphere. A hike to Manarola revealed slightly larger crowds there, which made us even happier with our choice of base.
We made a quick stop at Pisa before heading to Florence, where we stayed at Hotel Collodi. The hotel was charming and budget friendly, located in a historic building near the market. However, Florence itself was disappointing this time. What used to feel like a walkable, culturally rich city now felt overwhelmed by crowds. It was difficult to move around, and many areas felt overly commercialized and less authentic.
The same feeling continued in Rome. While the landmarks are still breathtaking, the experience of exploring the city has changed. Wandering freely is no longer easy due to large crowds, long queues, and heavy tourist traffic around major sites like Pantheon and Trevi Fountain. Staying in Prati helped, as it offered a quieter and more relaxed environment away from the busiest areas.
Although I understand that I am also part of the tourism flow, it is hard to ignore how much places like Florence and Rome have changed due to overtourism. Compared to earlier visits, the charm feels diminished, and the experience can be exhausting.
The trip still had many highlights, especially in less crowded areas, but overall it left me feeling nostalgic for what these places once were. I am not sure if I would return to some of the major cities again despite my deep connection to the country.
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