Nashville makes no sense at all as the Music City, except that it’s true. This is “the” place you are most likely to find people who appreciate music and, more broadly, entertainment. You won’t find a docent in Nashville who couldn’t reasonably get a casting call for Saturday Night Live. Nashville is alive, electric, fun, and soul-nourishing, oh, and walkable. We walked everywhere.
After my Beefdip Puerto Vallarta ended on a Sunday, it made little sense to go all the way home to Palm Springs, seeing that I was meeting my siblings in Nashville on Thursday. So that left me with four extra days. Having heard such great things about Nashville, I decided to take the plunge and turn a 4-night stay into an 8-night stay.
I used Cosco Travel to book the Kimpton Aertson Hotel on Broadway for my first four nights. At the time, I had no idea that it was on the edge of the Vanderbilt Campus, that Vanderbilt rivals Duke, and that Broadway is the main drag. This was a fantastic hotel with gorgeous furnishings and a great restaurant. Hint: find out for yourself why Vanderbilt rivals Duke.
At checkin I asked if an upgrade was available since I was gonna be there four nights. They asked for my Kimpton number. I’m thinking, “well this ain’t gonna do anygood because I have no status with IHG.” They upgraded me to a spacious corner King anyway. Southern Hospitality 🍍✅ Later, I learned Platinum IHG status is a feature of Chase Sapphire Reserve. It was instant and got me a 2pm checkout.
Costco includes $40 a day hotel credit. All food was closed when I arrived, so I used night 1 for a half bottle of J Pinot and some gummy bears. Morning 2 I was ready for breakfast. I had no idea what to expect. I sat down next to an older woman and instantly eyed her beignets. I wanted one so bad. I wasn’t sure I needed a full order, just one.
Priscilla had been at the hotel for eight days after power went out in her suburban home. She gave me tons of Nashville advice and – the beignets. My desire to own them had to have become palpable. They did not taste like New Orleans – at first. But within 24 hours, they were – delicious. I ate them for three days. I already miss my little fried friends.
That afternoon, we visited the Musicians’ Hall of Fame. The audio tour was useless, but the museum itself didn’t disappoint. Like everywhere in Nashville, we were greeted by someone who will be famous someday. We were only 10 seconds into meeting before our host told us he’d played at Stage Coach (The country version of Coachella.)
This was the place I started to learn about music. When you think of Rock, you think of bands, except at least in the beginning, it wasn’t like that; it was really singers. When you recorded, you used the house band. And that’s how Suspicious Minds, In the Ghetto,Son of a Preacher Man, Sweet Caroline, and hundreds of other hits ended up performed by the same guys! Unlike 20 Feet from Stardom, this movie ends well, you can find The Memphis Boys on Spotify.
I tasked CJ with finding a place for dinner that was in winter walking distance. My vision of Nashville in February was 50’s. A 100-year storm (twice) brought downed trees, snow, and a deep freeze. CJ didn’t disappoint with SHAOKAO - Chinese Street Food. I only took photos of the Pork Shumai and Soup Dumplings, but I’d give these guys credit, an A+ for atmosphere and a serious attempt at authenticity.
After dinner, we wanted dessert and ended up at Sarabha's creamery, which is Indian. If Missouri is the Show Me State, Tennessee is the Understated State. I ate the stuff. It was good. I talked to the owner. I still cannot explain what Indian ice cream is. This became a theme with food. In SF, you can expect to know your egg’s lineage, but not so in Nashville. The food was frequently excellent yet lacked any marketing or explanation.
By Tuesday morning, I started frequenting gyms again. Crossfit Music City and the brand new QNTM fit next to Whole Foods. Of course, CMC has a playlist made by members.
For dinner, I decided it was time to use my new Chase Sapphire Reserve dining credit. I think it’s PATHETIC but that’s how we stumbled on International Kitchen. Kudos to Chase like Amex with Resy for curating great restaurants and giving dining credits but F to me for not finding the place as both a foodie and a gay.
Before I mention Arnold, aka Suzy Wong, I need to talk about just one food item. I lived in San Francisco for 20 years. I’d like to consider myself exposed beyond watching The Joy Luck Club. IM is where I learned what Thai Lettuce Wraps are actually supposed to taste like. 20+ small bowls of herbs, coconut, chiles, ginger, and proteins are presented. You’re supposed to take just a small amount of each and wrap them in lettuce. Sells for like $44 but I would paid $200. It literally was to-die-for.
BTW did I ask for soy sauce? Of course!!! But this was the first time I’ve ever paid for soy sauce. For $6 they brought back a house-made liquid that was the best thing I have ever tasted in my entire life. Soy, lime, sugar, garlic, chiles, and fish sauce are combined into what I’d call “fuck you white guy!” sauce that was an ideal companion. I need to order some. No low sodium here!!
Now about that timeline. 1976 Win Myint, a Burmese immigrant and Vanderbilt cafeteria worker, opens International Market near campus so students can try foods from around the world. It’s tiny, cheap, and beloved immediately.
2000s — Son Arnold appears on Top Chef. Plot twist — he’s also a drag queen. Arnold performs as Suzy Wong, @suzywongyum, becoming one of Nashville’s most famous drag performers—while simultaneously running restaurants.
2022 - Win Myint receives the James Beard Award, having died in 2022, Arnold accepts it for her.
2024 — Arnold publishes a Family Thai: Bringing the Flavors of Thailand Home, becoming a New York Times bestselling author. The hardcover has gorgeous pics and it’s only $20 on Amazon right now. I just ordered mine.
I’m in love with Arnold, his sister Anna, and his mother (lord bless her soul), Win Myint, (her real name.) History says Anna kept the place afloat while Arnold was out galavanting. Thank you Myint family. You’re the heart of Nashville.
By Thursday, we moved into our gorgeous Airbnb in Germantown near the Farmer’s Market. I love Airbnb but all I can say is. Read the reviews, they’re as telling as photos. Our Airbnb said it was 4 bedrooms. It was actually 5, we guessed 4,000 sqft. Our host was generous, responsive and left us a Nothing Bundt Cake that we ate for four days.
Friday, we toured The Grand Old Opry. I was expecting something like a Universal Studios back lot tour i.e. not much. That was not the case at all. The tour was phenomenal. Our tour guide seemed like she could easily be Melissa McCarthy’s sister. By the end of the opening intro movie, I was almost in tears. The stories are that good. I challenge you to get the song Unbroken Circle out of your head after time in Nasvhille.
Starving, we made our way to Hattie B’s Nashville hot, of which there are now oh-so-many competitors, including Raising Cane's and Dave’s Hot. OK I’m gonna come out. I prefer KFC to a ton of other fried chicken and don’t like smashburgers. Hamburger fat should be drained, not fried, and in the US, we’re allowed to grill medium-rare, as burgers should be. But I digress. It’s an institution, and you can see why.
From there, we went for drinks at Robert’s Western, which is a boot store turned Honky Tonk. According to locals, this is the last remaining real Honky Tonk, which simply means, plays real country, no pop hits. Having been to the Grand, you really feel the need to hear country immediately. This is where you’ll find it, all day, every day. Their food isn’t bad either. I was so jealous of the grilled cheeses I saw being made (for others!??!) that I returned the next day while my sibs were still at the Johnny Cash Museum. It did not disappoint!
Studio B was next. I’m certain we will see our guide become famous. Like all our docents, she was – that good. There are so many musts; Studio B joins the list. Learn how Nashville became the Music City, sit on Elvis' piano and see where Dolly crashed her car into the building when she arrived to record her first song. Oops!
We also toured the Country Music Hall of Fame and the Museum of African Music; both were impressive, but absent a docent, felt more 2-dimensional. Great docents bring Nashville alive, it’s worth finding them.
Our final night, we saw Yacht Rock Revue at the Ryman Theatre. Another must the Ryman is the original Grand Old Opry, which has since moved to a larger location. The music, the sound, the staff, all like everything in Nashville, top of their game.
Monday my 7am flight to Dallas on the way to PS was humbling. No Chase or Amex Lounge, not even a Priority Minus. I had my first back-to-real-world encounter in Tennessee. I bought breakfast at 5:45 am and asked to have my water bottle refilled. Well, let me just tell you. They won’t be working at Int’l Market anytime soon, no HOW-DEEEE for them and most definitely no membership at the Opry! Nashville I love you. I’ll be back soon.
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