I say this because the trip honestly stole my heart. Walking through Baghdad at night with the tea houses buzzing, seeing sunrise on the Tigris, standing at the ziggurat of Ur, it all felt surreal. The marshes were calm and beautiful, with water buffalo drifting past our boat. And the people? Unbelievably kind. Everywhere I went, folks offered me chai or snacks, just happy to welcome a stranger.
Traveling with a local guide made it smooth, checkpoints were just part of the rhythm. Masgouf by the river might be the best meal I’ve ever had. Already dreaming about going back.
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