I finally did the Bernina route last September using the regional trains instead of the tourist Bernina Express, and honestly it might be one of the best travel experiences I’ve had in Europe.
For anyone planning this trip, my biggest recommendation is to skip the dedicated Bernina Express train and use the regular regional trains instead. You get the exact same scenery, the trains run more often, they’re usually less crowded, and they cost a lot less.
The route itself runs between Chur and Tirano, Italy, passing through St. Moritz. I started in Zurich and transferred easily in Chur onto an IR train toward St. Moritz. What surprised me most was discovering the beautiful vintage dining car called Gourmino attached to the train. The tourist Bernina Express apparently only has snack service, but this regional train had a fully restored old-school dining carriage with incredible alpine views. Lunch there ended up being one of the highlights of the trip.
The scenery on the way to St. Moritz was stunning the entire time. Deep valleys, mountain villages, lakes, forests, and dramatic bridges everywhere. After changing trains, the section from St. Moritz to Tirano became even more dramatic with snowier landscapes and higher elevations.
Things did not go perfectly though. We had some delays, and later on the train from Tirano toward Milan was disrupted because of a landslide, which caused a messy mix of trains and replacement buses. I eventually missed my high-speed train connection and got into Bologna after midnight. If I ever do this route again, I’d definitely spend a night in Tirano instead of rushing onward.
Even with the delays, I still think this is one of the best rail journeys in Europe and surprisingly affordable if booked correctly. I paid around €48 using Deutsche Bahn’s advance fares, which felt like an incredible deal considering how expensive Switzerland usually is.
A few quick tips:
• Use the regional trains instead of the tourist Bernina Express
• Try to book the IR train with the Gourmino dining car
• Sit near the front on the St. Moritz to Tirano section for the best views
• Leave buffer time for onward connections in Italy
• Consider overnighting in Tirano if your schedule allows
Absolutely worth doing if you enjoy trains, mountain scenery, or scenic travel in general.
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